Plitvice Lakes National Park
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I came back in December partly to settle the score with my summer visit. The forecast said 8°C and clear; I packed merino, microspikes, and a flask. Both decisions paid off. Entrance 1 was almost empty at 9am. The ticket office was a Portacabin with one attendant, the €10 entry felt like an apology, and only trails A was officially open — about a third of what's accessible in summer. The boat across Lake Kozjak doesn't run, the shuttles don't either, and the upper-lakes plateau was roped off entirely.
Traveler Tips
The park publishes a daily open-trail map; check on the morning, conditions change overnight. The cafés near the entrances close by mid-afternoon in winter. Avoid driving the road in after dark, it's unlit and prone to heavy fogs. If the upper trails are closed, you can be in and out in three hours, which leaves time for Rastoke or Slunj on the way back.
Ana Brežnik
@anabreznik
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